Not all routes must include some of those buildings that would justify a visit in and of themselves. The Catalan Pyrenees often hide corners so far removed from civilization that it's no surprise that the buildings we find there are structurally very simple and built with minimal resources. But what is lost in majesty is gained in tranquility and scenic beauty, where nature and art complement each other to present a unique spectacle. The Vall Ferrera is one such example.
Best known as the access route to Pica d'Estats, which at 3,143 meters is the highest peak in Catalonia, it offers interesting buildings for those curious about rural Romanesque art. Its name derives from the Catalan "ferro" (iron), which attests to the extraction of this mineral in ancient times. However, the last forge closed in 1874, effectively ending one of the region's main means of subsistence. Life was never easy, and the lack of resources prevented the construction of more ambitious structures like those in Vall de Cardós (Route 5) or Vall d'Àneu (Route 3).
The churches and chapels we'll encounter along the route are small and scattered throughout the area, whether in the mountains or in small rural towns. The route begins in Alins de Vallferrera, where we arrived from Llavorsí. The church of Sant Vicenç (photo 1), a building completely renovated in the Baroque period, preserves the lower part of the bell tower from the Romanesque period. Nearby, on a hill overlooking the valley, the chapel of Sant Quiri (photo 2) invites you to take a short walk through the countryside. It was restored in two interventions, the first in 1986 and the second the following year.
We'll leave the L-510 and enter the Noguera de Tor valley. The old forest track has been paved until just after the junction with the road leading to Norís. In this town, you'll find the church of Sant Serni (photo 3), which you can visit now or on your return from Tor. At the end of the track, you'll find the church of Sant Pere (photo 4), one of the oldest in the valley. In summer, access to the site is usually easy, but during the rainy season or in the depths of winter, not all vehicles are suitable. In any case, a 4×4 will always save you from awkward situations.
We've returned to the L-510 and are heading north. A short distance from Alins, on the right as you head toward Àreu, next to the Noguera de Vall Ferrera, is the chapel of Santa Maria de la Torre (photo 5), a building that has been completely restored over the last two decades in successive interventions. Our last visit is a little further north, in La Força d'Àreu, where the church of Sant Feliu (photo 6) stands, restored in the 1980s by the Vall Ferrera Heritage Association.
Source: Romanico en ruta
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